Jamo Grout

We injected our floors, here are the details of the bag he said High-Tech Polymer Sanded Tile Grout days by Jamo Inc., Master buff. We were told not to let it get wet for 24 hours and then wipe with a dry cloth, then later with a slightly damp mop the tile guy.
Now all the grout seems to be white and have lost all color. We put a damp paper towel on a surface of grout last night and this morning, the grout is a buff. The bag called wet cure the grout (the opposite of what the guy said tiles)
It was supposed to be a medium beige and it was when it premiered, was mixed. The type of tile do not let it die out, after reading more tiles it seems that it was a mistake?? Does the fact that she is white? Can we begin to wet cure now, or we stick to the skin and should be cured at all wet.
Thank you in advance!

I think you asked this Q yesterday?

As I said then, I tile every day of my life, and the kind of grout is certainly reasonable for the purposes intended. I think I'm curious to know how someone defines Buff. While colored dots on a bag or face sehlf are not always strictly true, although a color change of any radical measure would be rare since the grout is partially pigment.

I'm not sure why any grout must be moist cured, but it may be a formulation I do not use. Obviously grout must be mixed with water, I prefer mashed potato consistency, then three steps can be wiped with a sponge grout, finally stopping to allow the dust in the dry state, which is easily wiped away. I've just done and the area of my kitchen floor yesterday, and adding too much water to the grout disrupts its binding properties. In addition to allowing a well-mixed grout to dry, not by defining it as "cured" in the strict sense, but grout is not so much as a slab of concrete poured.
At this stage I see no advantage at all to wet grout, grout and all, any color is subjected to moisture showing, which would induce temporary darkening.

Not that I totally disagree with what this site states, it is instructive

http://www.countrycustomtile.com/grout.h ...

I must say though, in my opinion and experience, grout sets and moved faster than the mortar, but you're already mixed agitation and activation of focal points and mixture properties in the grout. It may take time just to get the quench bucket of mortar from the place where it was mixed at the place where it is applied. If I had to wait 5 or 10 minutes for each gallon of grout I use, I'd never do the job. Adequate mixing with the right amount of water has always worked for me, and I injected storey stand still, after years of use, as long as the substrate and the composition of mortar have been good to begin with.

For one, the craft, we should plan a small area at a time, and continue to move away from him at the end. Best could be two people, a slurry, another for wiping, but I've never a problem alone.

Steven Wolf
Just my 2 "sense"

In my opinion, this particular problem has nothing to do with the ease or lack of moist curing. Some recommend a grout wet processing, as it helps the grout set-up more difficult but it's not your problem. I think your problem was probably caused when you made your first cleaning the grout. If you use too much water, you may cause minerals in the slurry to infiltrate the surface (the technical term is efflorescence). Unfortunately, the options to fix it are not that great.

You can try to remove construction minerals with an acid solution and a stiff brush. You can get in a tile store or any art materials